Cruel Summer
Summer 2009 breezes in just in time to lift the dark cloud of despair that has been hanging heavily overhead for the last several months. Right now, we all need a recess from the recession, a summer vacation, a new beginning. Or, we could just re-visit the past when things were happier (and more prosperous). Unless one has been living under a rock (which doesn’t seem like a bad idea lately!), it’s hard not to notice the rebirth of the 1980’s happening not only in terms of fashion, but in music and media. Bright splashes of color, bold prints, enormous accessories and strong silhouettes are invading the streets, store windows, advertisements and magazine covers. It’s almost as if fashion is arming and strengthening us in order to fight the battle that lies ahead for this economically challenged country.
“Acid Rain” -- Fluorescent hues, a la Stephen Sprouse, are the pioneers of the eighties revival. Neon colors have saturated the fashion world with no intention of stopping in the near future. They’re present in every category from shoes and handbags to dresses and blouses. Typically, we associate acidic pigments with the junior or “tween” market, but they are wearable at any age. I’m not suggesting a trip to Topshop to pick up a pair of ultraviolet leggings, but perhaps a new shocking nail color or a bright, narrow belt would provide a fun accent to an outfit.
“Purple Rain” -- Prince isn’t the only one singing about purple these days. The regal color is making a come-back (ironically, so is Prince). Purple is a part of the eighties “round two” as it was one of the most notable colors of that decade. Many people are afraid of this color and it can be difficult to pull off. Bluer shades (like periwinkle) tend to dull a complexion and can wreak havoc on women who wear their hair grey. Slightly more red casts like, orchid and lavender are much better choices, as are more saturated, brighter shades.
“Bolder Shoulder” – Ah, the shoulder pad. Remember the days of football player-like jackets? Well, they’re coming back! The shoulder has been a focal point on the runway for the last couple of seasons and we’re seeing it manipulated in a variety of ways. Strong shoulders, whether they’re achieved with padding, cutouts, asymmetry, shirring in sleeve caps, pleating, draping, etc., are one of the most significant features for the Spring/Summer season.
With a new President in office, America is ready to embrace change. It’s not just that Barack Obama is the first African-American President elected, but also the fact that he represents a new point of view. We are more concerned with the environment, with rebuilding our country and improving relations with other countries. Politics plays an important role in fashion and this season is no exception. Influences from all over the world are setting trends ranging from elaborate embellishments, tribalistic jewelry and motifs, rich colors, ethnic prints and complex fabrics.
“Exotic Safari” – Africa and India provide some of the biggest trends of the season. Jewelry in particular, is the perfect vehicle to embrace the idea. Necklaces and bracelets have evolved into large, ornamental works of art made of wood, bone, agate, metal, shell, stones and leather, and have (in some cases) become the most important component while the clothes just serve as a canvas or backdrop. Textured, natural fabrics such as linen, silk and cotton in neutral tones as well as warm, saturated colors are key.
“You Snake!” – Reptile texture (and print) is such a dominant trend for Summer, I can’t think of one area that it doesn’t show up. Of course, the easiest place to find a snake is lurking in the accessories department. In addition to snake skin, animal prints in general are hot this season. While it’s never difficult to find a cheetah or a zebra print any time of the year, Summer ’09 is overwhelmingly animal friendly.
The return to American idealism is perhaps the biggest trend occurring as of late. Because we know that nothing can change overnight and that “Made in USA” may take a while to come back (at least in apparel), we choose to reminisce about times gone by. America is the birth place of Rock ‘n Roll, and although musical influence is always present in fashion in some way, shape or form, it is particularly relevant for Summer ’09. A sense of unity and pride conjures up appreciation for our forefathers and the strong desire to preserve and rebuild our country. Americans are recalling simpler times and getting back to the basics.
“What’s the Skinny?” –Narrow pants, narrow ties and narrow jackets remind us of how cool Buddy Holly and Elvis Presley (circa 1970, of course) were. Perhaps this applies mainly to the male fashionistas, but women are adopting the lean look as well.
“Bandage, Bondage” – Don’t be afraid, I’m just referring to the wrapping and criss-crossing of elastic-like materials to create sexy, tight-fitting dresses. The good thing about these pieces is that the elastic quality actually holds everything in place and disguises unsightly lumps and bumps. Think of it as wearing a very fancy pair of Spanx!
“Chain Gang” – Layers upon layers of chains are weighing down necks all around the land. Not only is the accessory market taking advantage of this craze, but apparel market as well. Detachable (and attached) necklaces adorn knit tops while chain-link belts gently embrace skirts and trousers.
“Woodstock” -- The Bohemian style lingers on, but in a more elegant way this Summer. Maxi-dresses are one of the season’s most important silhouettes, while the mini-skirt is still present. Watercolor prints, floral, medallion and paisley decorate chiffon, jersey and voile. Ornamental touches of crochet, lace, eyelet and other open work fabrics add texture.
“New Frontier” – Feathers and fringe, turquoise compliment buffalo checks, plaid and Navajo motifs. Cowboy and other styles of rugged ankle boots make a strong statement and, as always, denim dominates. After all, Levi’s was founded in the U.S.A.
Wall Street may have crashed and burned recently, but the market has bounced back, in a sense, emerging in fashion. Clean, sharp, lines materialize into tailored pieces while, on the flip side, a wave of feminism is washing over the fashion industry providing a balance between the masculine and feminine.
“It’s A Man’s World” – As a key component of the season, trousers have never been more diverse. Skinny, flat front pants still stand strong, but a new regime of wider leg silhouettes are marching in with higher waists, pleats and yoke treatments. They come in all lengths ranging from full, to cropped, to shorts. In fact, shorts have exploded as a category and are available in a vast array of shapes and styles. Combine trousers, Bermudas or a pencil skirt with a crisp white shirt and possibly even a vest (another hot new item) and the look is complete. Don’t forget to accessorize!
“Thrills and Frills” – On the opposite end of the spectrum, soft fabrics and colors are draped and layered creating pretty pieces fit for a princess. Ruffles are unavoidable this season as are rosettes and bows.
“Greek Goddess” – While Donna Karan has been the “Queen of Drape” for years (and let’s not forget the late greats, Halston & Madame Gres), the Grecian look is becoming increasingly important. Draping and folding tend to camouflage and accentuate where needed, therefore, it’s no mystery why women gravitate toward these styles. We feel pretty, soft, sexy, self-assured… like a Goddess. In tandem with the Greek trend, the gladiator sandal returns (another Eighties throwback). After all, what else would Aphrodite wear?
“In the Flesh” -- Nude is a fresh, new color (or non-color) for Summer. Shades of neutrals (buff, beige, taupe, Champagne) and tints of color (blush, porcelain, peach) help to soften and ground the bold brights. These lovely cosmetic colors evoke femininity and lend themselves to pretty, flirty styles.
With the message of change permeating the country, there is more focus on America’s youth. Thanks to the Internet, Facebook, Twitter, IPhones, etc., the younger generation is more aware than ever of politics, science, culture and fashion. An awareness of domestic and international issues is infiltrating schools all over the country. The last time our youth was so politically active was the 1960’s. This exceptional decade is also influencing what is happening in the world of fashion.
“Gossip Girl” – OK, I admit it, I watch this show. Apparently, I’m not alone because the prep-school socialites have created a huge buzz in the fashion world. Pretty little fine-gauge cardigans and preppy, cropped blazers mingle with short tulip skirts to create a refined and sophisticated (but inherently young) ensemble. Top it off with a decorative headband (a huge rage in the accessory world) and the look is complete.
“Optical Optimism” – Fashion is giving us a lesson in geometry as black & white graphic and colorful geo patterns inspired by the sixties are popping up everywhere.
“Polka Party” – Dots and spots in all sizes dance around on a variety of fabrics and silhouettes exuding zest and vitality as if they are personal messengers of hope, assuring the world that everything will be OK.
-Stacy Lomman
